Page 55 - Shawl Weaving Artisan - TT

Once the design is ready, it needs to be connected to Fig 4
the loom.
Harness mounting is the process of connecting the
Jacquard machine to the warp threads using cords and
boards.
This helps in lifting the right warp threads according to
the design.
Each hook is connected to a cord, and each cord is
connected to a warp thread.
5 Parts of harness mounting Each card is for one pick (one horizontal thread) of the

1 Hooks: Small metal parts that move up and down design.
to lift threads. • Hole in card = The hook will lift the warp thread.
2 Needles: Control the hooks using the punched • No hole = The hook will not lift the thread.
cards.
The cards are made row by row, reading the design from
3 Harness cord: A thread/cord that connects the bottom to top of the graph.
hook to the warp yarn.
8 Lacing or stitching the cards (Fig 5)
4 Comber board: A wooden or plastic board with
holes. Each cord passes through a hole to keep Fig 5
spacing equal.
5 Neck cord: Connects the comber board to the
loom and the warp yarns.
6 Healds or eyelets: Small rings or loops that guide
the warp threads from the harness to the weaving
area.
6 Types of harness mounting
There are different ways to arrange the cords:
1 Straight mounting: Each hook is connected in Once all cards are punched, they are stitched or tied
straight order (1-2-3-4...). together in a line.
Used for simple designs. This is called a card chain.
2 Centre-tied mounting: The pattern is arranged This card chain runs on the Jacquard machine during
around the center. weaving.
Good for symmetrical designs (like flowers or Each card passes under the needles, which read the
diamonds). holes and decide which threads will be lifted.

3 Side-tied mounting: The pattern starts from the 9 Uses of jacquard designs in fabric
sides.
Jacquard designs are used in:
Used for border designs.
• Banarasi and Kanjivaram sarees
4 Point mounting: The design is arranged in a point
or mirror format (e.g., 1-2-3-2-1). • Brocade fabrics
Used in traditional and repeat patterns. • Home furnishing fabrics (like curtains and
bedcovers)
7 Card cutting (Punched cards) (Fig 4)
• Tapestry and wall hangings
After the design is made on paper, it must be converted
into punched cards. • Decorative labels and logos in fabric
These cards control the lifting of warp threads during
weaving.

Textile & Handloom: Shawl Weaving Artisan : (NSQF - 2024) R.T. Ex.No 1.3.29 45